Ramalingeswara temple: A walk through time in Avani

Last Saturday wasn’t like any other. I woke up at 8 AM, feeling a twinge of guilt. Two weeks in Bangalore, and I hadn’t explored a thing! The city’s usual symphony of honking and the relentless rush was starting to wear me down. I desperately needed a change of pace.

I decided the weekend was going to be different. I craved escape, somewhere far from the urban chaos, a place steeped in history and tranquility. A bit of online searching led me to Avani, about 100 km from Bangalore and just 30 km from KGF. The moment I saw it was linked to the Ramayana, I was hooked. Destination decided!

The road to Avani

By 9 AM, I was finally on the road. A quick stop near KGF at a tiny tea stall was a must. That first sip of tea strong, simple, and just what I needed was the perfect way to kick off the trip.

The drive itself was a breeze, thanks to the decent roads. But as I veered off the highway towards Avani (about 6 km in), the real charm of rural Karnataka started to unfold. Little vegetable stands, old men chatting under the shade of trees, tea vendors on bicycles…it was a world away from the city.

First Impressions

The Ramalingeshwara Temple sat right in the heart of Avani, a silent witness against the backdrop of the rugged Eastern Ghats. As I walked in, I noticed the remnants of an old gopura, a reminder of the temple’s once grand entrance. Even in its current state, the temple exuded a powerful presence, a sense of deep history.

Avani is ancient. An inscription from 399 AD mentions the site, and later records even refer to it as “The Gaya of the South.” But its connection to the Ramayana is what truly sets it apart. Legend has it that this was once Valmiki’s hermitage, the very sage who penned the epic. It’s believed that Lord Rama himself visited Avani, and that Lava and Kusha, his twin sons, were born here. A nearby hill, still called “Lava-Kusha Betta,” keeps the legend alive.

Stepping Back in Time

The temple complex is a fascinating blend of different eras. Built initially by the Nolamba dynasty in the 10th century, it was later expanded by the Cholas and the Vijayanagara rulers, each leaving their unique architectural imprint.

The temple houses four main shrines, dedicated to Rama, Lakshmana, Bharata, and Shatrughna. There are also smaller shrines for Vali and Sugriva, the Vanara warriors from the Ramayana.

One structure that particularly caught my eye was the Lakshmanalingeshwara Temple. It houses the largest Shiva Linga in the complex, and on one of its walls, I spotted a carving of Tribhuvanakarta, a 10th-century saint, holding a rudraksha mala. The ceilings here were adorned with intricate sculptures of Shiva and Parvati, surrounded by celestial guardians.

A Simple Moment

I spent a couple of hours wandering through the temple, soaking in the details, letting my imagination wander back through the centuries.

As I was leaving, an elderly woman, probably in her 80s, called out to me from near the entrance. She spoke in Kannada, which I didn’t fully understand, but I could see she was selling Raspuri mangoes neatly cut and ready to eat.

I bought a few. That first bite the soft, juicy sweetness was absolutely divine. It was one of those unexpected little moments that stick with you long after the trip is over.

This trip was during my internship at INTACH Bangalore in 2022, and Avani remains one of my most treasured discoveries.